Drop the bones in a stockpot with about 2 cups dry white wine and 4 cups of water. For aromatics, I like a rough-chopped onion or shallot, some celery and a bouquet garni (parsley, bay, thyme, peppercorns). Bring the mixture to a simmer and let it cook (without boiling) for about 20 minutes. Strain the stock well and discard all the solids. Once cool, you can refrigerate it for a couple days or freeze it up to 1 month.

OK, so now that you’ve got amazing stock, turning it into chowder is a piece of cake. I’m a white-chowder lover, but just creamy enough to be lightly thickened, not the coat-your-mouth-with-cream kind of chowder.

Saute about ½ cup diced onion or leeks in a little butter or oil until translucent. Add a teaspoon of minced fresh thyme, a pinch of salt and pepper and, if you like it, a sprinkle of Old Bay Seasoning. Add about 6 cups of fish stock and 2 cups of whole milk or half and half, bring to a boil, then reduce to a low simmer. Add 2 cups of peeled, diced Yukon Gold potatoes and cook, partially covered, until the potatoes are just tender. Taste the soup and season with salt and pepper. This is your chowder base and from here you have lots of room to play.

For clam chowder you can add about 2 cups of shucked raw clams (or good-quality canned clams) and simmer until they are just tender (watch carefully so they don’t overcook). For salmon chowder, cut 1 pound salmon filet, skinned, into 1-inch pieces and place them in the chowder until just tender, 3–4 minutes. (For even more salmon flavor, finish the soup with ½ cup diced smoked salmon.) Any other firm white fish works here too, as do mussels, shrimp or oysters. The seafood will cook quickly in the warm broth so this isn’t a soup you want to walk away from.